THE TUDOR HISTORIAN JOHN
STOW CASTS AN ANALYTICAL EYE OVER LONDON’S INFRASTRUCTURE IN 1598
[Editor’s Note: This is an extract
from A Survay of London, 1598, by the Tudor historian John Stow. He occasionally refers to his Annales,
or a Generale Chronicle of England from Brute until the present yeare of Christ
1580. (‘Brute’ is Brutus of Troy, a
mythological figure, reputedly grandson of Aeneas, who discovered Britain,
named it ‘Brutan’, hence Britain, and became its first king.) Both these books
were extremely popular and went through several editions. This extract, covering bridges and gates,
illustrates how London developed, and includes some information about very early London, and it stresses the importance of
gates (to control whether or not people could come in) and bridges (to allow
them to cross the river). A few
editorial comments have been added in brackets, to clarify dates or the names
of the locations. Two features are of particular interest: firstly, the
elegance of the prose, and secondly, the number of times when the cost of a
bridge or gate, or of its repair (‘reparation’), comes from the wealthy,
performing what they saw as their civic duty.
BRIDGES OF THIS CITY
The
original foundation of London bridge, by report of Bartholomew Linsted, alias
Fowle, last prior of St. Mary Overies church in Southwark, was this: A ferry being
kept in place where now the bridge is built, at length the ferryman and his
wife deceasing, left the same ferry to their only daughter, a maiden named
Mary, which with the goods left by her parents, and also with the profits
arising of the said ferry, built a house of Sisters, in place where now
standeth the east part of St. Mary Overies church, above the choir, where she
was buried, unto which house she gave the oversight and profits of the ferry;
but afterwards the said house of Sisters being converted into a college of
priests, the priests built the bridge (of timber) as all the other great
bridges of this land were, and from time to time kept the same in good reparations,
till at length, considering the great charges of repairing the same, there was,
by aid of the citizens of London, and others, a bridge built with arches of
stone, as shall be shown. [St Mary Overie (= ‘over the river’, i.e. on the
south bank) is one of the parishes named in the dedication of Southwark
Cathedral, and the church to which Stow alludes was incorporated as part of
various sacred structures, culminating in the present nineteenth-century
cathedral.]
But first
of the timber bridge, the antiquity thereof being great, but uncertain; I
remember to have read, that in the year of Christ
994, Sweyn, king of Denmark, besieging the city of London, both by water and by
land, the citizens manfully defended themselves, and their king Ethelred, so as
part of their enemies were slain in battle, and part of them were drowned in
the river of Thames, because in their hasty rage they took no heed of the
bridge.
Moreover,
in the year 1016, Canute the Dane, with a great navy, came up to London, and on
the south of the Thames caused a trench to be cast, through the which his ships
were towed into the west side of the bridge, and then with a deep trench, and
straight siege, he compassed the city round about.
Also, in
the year 1052, Earl Goodwin, with the like navy, taking his course up the river
of Thames, and finding none that offered to resist on the bridge, he sailed up
the south side of the said river. Furthermore, about the year 1067, William the
Conqueror, in his charter to the church of St. Peter at Westminster, confirmed
to the monks serving God there, a gate in London, then called Buttolph’s gate,
with a wharf which was at the head of London bridge.
We read
likewise, that in the year 1114, the 14th of Henry I., the river of Thames was
so dried up, and such want of water there, that between the Tower of London and
the bridge, and under the bridge, not only with horse, but also a great number
of men, women, and children, did wade over on foot.
In the
year 1122, the 22nd of Henry I., Thomas Arden gave the monks of Bermondsey the
church of St. George, in Southward, and five shillings rent by the year, out of
the land pertaining to London bridge.
I also
have seen a charter under seal to the effect following:—“Henry king of England,
to Ralfe B. of Chichester, and all the ministers of Sussex, sendeth greeting,
know ye, etc. I command by my kingly authority, that the manor called
Alcestone, which my father gave, with other lands, to the abbey of Battle, be
free and quiet from shires and hundreds, and all other customs of earthly
servitude, as my father held the same, most freely and quietly, and namely,
from the work of London bridge, and the work of the castle at Pevensey: and
this I command upon my forfeiture. Witness, William de Pontlearche, at Byrry.”
The which charter, with the seal very fair, remaineth in the custody of Joseph
Holland, gentleman.
In the
year 1136, the 1st of king Stephen, a fire began
in the house of one Ailewarde, near unto London stone, which consumed east to
Aldgate, and west to St. Erkenwald’s shrine, in Powle’s [St Paul’s] church; the
bridge of timber over the river of Thames was also burnt, etc., but afterwards
again repaired. For Fitzstephen writes, that in the reign of King Stephen and
of Henry II., when pastimes were showed on the river of Thames, men stood in
great number on the bridge, wharfs, and houses, to behold. [The reference is to
William Fitzstephen’s Descriptio
Nobilissimi Civitatis Londoniae (12th century).]
Now in
the year 1163, the same bridge was not only repaired, but newly made of timber
as before, by Peter of Cole church, priest and chaplain.
Thus much
for the old timber bridge, maintained partly by the proper lands thereof,
partly by the liberality of divers persons, and partly by taxations in divers
shires, have I proved for the space of 215 years before the bridge of stone was
built.
Now
touching the foundation of the stone bridge, it followeth:—About the year 1176,
the stone bridge over the river of Thames, at London, was begun to be founded
by the aforesaid Peter of Cole church, near unto the bridge of timber, but
somewhat more towards the west, for I read, that Buttolfe wharf was, in the
Conqueror’s time, at the head of London bridge.
The king assisted this work: a cardinal then being legate here; and Richard,
archbishop of Canterbury, gave one thousand marks towards the foundation; the
course of the river, for the time, was turned another way about, by a trench
cast for that purpose, beginning, as is supposed, east about Radriffe
[Rotherhithe], and ending in the west about Patricksey, now termed Batersey.
This work; to wit, the arches, chapel and stone bridge, over the river of
Thames at London, having been thirty-three years in building, was in the year
1209 finished by the worthy merchants of London, Serle Mercer, William Almaine,
and Benedict Botewrite, principal masters of that work, for Peter of Cole
church deceased four years before, and was buried in the chapel on the bridge,
in the year 1205.
King John
gave certain void places in London to build upon the profits thereof to remain
towards the charges of building and repairing the same bridge: a mason being
master workman of the bridge, builded from the foundation the large chapel on
that bridge of his own charges, which chapel was then endowed for two priests,
four clerks, etc., besides chantries since founded for John Hatfield and other. After the finishing of this chapel, which was the
first building upon those arches, sundry houses at times were erected, and many
charitable men gave lands, tenements, or sums of money, towards maintenance
thereof, all which was sometimes noted and in a table fair written for
posterity remaining in the chapel, until the same chapel was turned into a
dwelling-house, and then removed to the bridge house, the effect of which table
I was willing to have published in this book, if I could have obtained the
sight thereof. But making the shorter work, I find by the account of William
Mariner and Christopher Eliot, wardens of London bridge from Michaelmas, in the
22nd of Henry VII., unto Michaelmas next ensuing, by one whole year, that all
the payments and allowances came to £815 17s. 2¼d., as there is
shown by particulars, by which account then made, may be partly guessed the
great charges and discharges of that bridge at this day, when things be
stretched to so great a price. [The sum mentioned for 1507 is the equivalent of
approximately £395,000 in 2017 – price-stretching indeed.] And now to actions on
this bridge.
The first
action to be noted was lamentable; for within four
years after the finishing thereof, to wit, in the year 1212, on the l0th of
July, at night, the borough of Southwark, upon the
south side the river of Thames, as also the church of our Lady of the Canons
there, being on fire, and an exceeding great multitude of people passing the
bridge, either to extinguish and quench it, or else to gaze at and behold it,
suddenly the north part, by blowing of the south wind was also set on fire, and
the people which were even now passing the bridge, perceiving the same, would
have returned, but were stopped by fire; and it came to pass, that as they
stayed for protracted time, the other end of the bridge also, namely, the south
end, was fired, so that the people thronging themselves between the two fires,
did nothing else but expect present death; then came there to aid them many
ships and vessels, into the which the multitude so unadvisedly rushed, that the
ships being drowned, they all perished. It was
said, that through the fire and shipwreck there were destroyed about three
thousand persons, whose bodies were found in part, or half burnt, besides those
that were wholly burnt to ashes, and could not be found.
About the
year 1282, through a great frost and deep snow, five arches of London bridge
were borne down and carried away.
In the
year 1289, the bridge was so sore decayed for want of reparations that men were
afraid to pass thereon, and a subsidy was granted towards the amendment
thereof, Sir John Britain being custos of London.
1381, a great collection or gathering was made of all archbishops, bishops, and
other ecclesiastical persons, for the reparations of London bridge. 1381, Wat
Tyler, and other rebels of Kent, by this bridge entered the city, as ye may
read in my Summary and Annals.
In the year 1395, on St. George’s day, was a
great justing on London bridge, betwixt David Earl of Crawford of Scotland, and
the Lord Wells of England; in the which the Lord Wells was at the third course
borne out of the saddle: which history proveth, that at that time the bridge
being coped on either side, was not replenished with houses built thereupon, as
it hath since been, and now is. The next year, on the 13th of November, the
young Queen Isabell, commonly called the little, for she was but eight years
old, was conveyed from Kenington besides Lamhith, through Southwarke to the
Tower of London, and such a multitude of people went out to see her, that on
London bridge nine persons were crowded to death, of whom the prior of Tiptre,
a place in Essex, was one, and a matron on Cornhill was another. [Isabella of France (1389–1409) was the
second spouse of King Richard II and therefore Queen consort.. She married the king at
the age of seven and was widowed three years later in 1399 at the age of ten,
upon the death of Richard II. She later married Charles, Duke of Orléans, dying in childbirth at the age of nineteen. Her
parents were King Charles VI of France and Isabeau of Bavaria. Isabella's younger sister, Catherine, was Queen of England from 1420 until 1422, wife of Henry V (appearing therefore in Shakespeare’s Henry V) and mother of Henry VI.]
The Tower
on London bridge at the north end of the draw-bridge (for that bridge was then
readily to be drawn up, as well to give passage for ships to Queenhithe, as for
the resistance of any foreign force), was begun to be built in the year 1426,
John Rainwell being mayor.
Another
tower there is on the said bridge over the gate at the south end towards
Southwarke, whereof in another place shall be spoken.
In the
year 1450, Jack Cade, and other rebels of Kent, by this bridge entered the
city: he struck his sword on London Stone, and said himself then to be lord of
the city, but were by the citizens overcome on the same bridge, and put to
flight, as in my Annals.
In the
year 1471, Thomas, the bastard Fawconbridge, besieged this bridge, burnt the
gate, and all the houses to the draw-bridge, that time thirteen in number.
In the
year 1481, a house called the common siege on London bridge fell down into the
Thames; through the fall whereof five men were drowned.
In the
year 1553, the 3rd of February, Sir Thomas Wyat, and the Kentish men, marched
from Depeford towards London; after knowledge whereof, forthwith the
draw-bridge was cut down, and the bridge gates shut. Wyat and his people
entered Southwarke, where they lay till the 6th of February, but could get no
entry of the city by the bridge, the same was then so well defended by the
citizens, the Lord William Howard assisting, wherefore he removed towards
Kingstone, etc., as in my Annals.
To
conclude of this bridge over the said river of Thames, I affirm, as in other my
descriptions, that it is a work very rare, having with the draw-bridge twenty
arches made of squared stone, of height sixty feet, and in breadth thirty feet,
distant, one from another twenty feet, compact and joined together with vaults
and cellars; upon both sides be houses built, so that it seemeth rather a
continual street than a bridge; for the fortifying whereof against the
incessant assaults of the river, it hath overseers and officers, viz., wardens,
as aforesaid, and others.
Fleete bridge
in the west without Ludgate, a bridge of stone, fair coped on either side with
iron pikes; on the which, towards the south, be also certain lanthorns of
stone, for lights to be placed in the winter evenings, for commodity of
travellers. Under the bridge runneth a water, sometimes called, as I have said,
the river of the Wels, since Turnemill brooke, now Fleete dike, because it
runneth by the Fleete, and sometimes about the Fleete, so under Fleete bridge
into the river of Thames. This bridge hath been far greater in times past, but
lessened, as the water course hath been narrowed. It seemeth this last bridge
to be made or repaired at the charges of John Wels, mayor, in the year 1431,
for on the coping is engraven Wels embraced by angels, like as on the standard
in Cheape, which he also built. Thus much of the bridge: for of the water
course, and decay thereof, I have spoken in another place.
Oldbourne
bridge, over the said river of the Wels more towards the north, was so called,
of a bourn that sometimes ran down Oldbourne hill into the said river. This
bridge of stone, like as Fleet bridge from Ludgate west, serveth for passengers
with carriage or otherwise, from Newgate toward the west and by north.
Cowbridge,
more north, over the same water by Cowbridge street or Cowlane: this bridge
being lately decayed, another of timber is made somewhat more north, by Chick
lane, etc.
Bridges
over the town ditch there are divers; to wit, without Aldgate, without
Bishopsgate, the postern called Moorgate, the postern of Criplegate without
Aldersgate, the postern of Christ’s hospital, Newgate, and Ludgate; all these
be over paved likewise, with stone level with the streets. But one other there
is of timber over the river of Wels, or Fleet dike, between the precinct of the
Black Friers, and the house of Bridewell.
There
have been of old time also, divers bridges in sundry places over the course of
Walbrooke, as before I have partly noted, besides Horseshew bridge, by the
church of St. John Baptist, now called St. John’s upon Walbrooke. I read, that
of old time every person having lands on either side of the said brook, should
cleanse the same, and repair the bridges so far as
their lands extended. More, in the 11th of Edward III. the inhabitants upon the
course of this brook were forced to pile and wall the sides thereof. Also, that
in the 3rd of Henry V. this water-course had many bridges, since vaulted over
with bricks, and the streets where through it passed so paved, that the same
water-course is now hardly discerned. For order was taken in the 2nd of Edward
IV., that such as had ground on either side of Walbrooke, should vault and pave
it over, so far as his ground extended. And thus much for bridges in this city
may suffice.
GATES IN THE WALL OF THIS CITY
Gates in
the wall of this city of old time were four; to wit, Aeldgate for the east,
Aldersgate for the north, Ludgate for the west, and the Bridgegate over the
river of Thames for the south; but of later times, for the ease of citizens and
passengers, divers other gates and posterns have been made, as shall be shown.
In the
reign of Henry II. (saith Fitzstephen) there were seven double gates in the
wall of this city, but he nameth them not. It may therefore be supposed, he
meant for the first, the gate next the Tower of London
now commonly called the Postern, the next be Aeldgate, the third Bishopsgate,
the fourth Ealdersgate, the fifth Newgate, the sixth Ludgate, the seventh
Bridgegate. Since the which time hath been builded the postern called Moorgate,
a postern from Christ’s hospital towards St. Bartholomew’s hospital in
Smithfield, etc. Now of every of these gates and posterns in the wall, and also
of certain water-gates on the river of Thames, severally somewhat may, and
shall be noted, as I find authority, or reasonable conjecture to warrant me.
For the
first, now called the postern by the Tower of London, it showeth by that part
which yet remaineth, to have been a fair and strong arched gate, partly built
of hard stone of Kent, and partly of stone brought from Caen in Normandy, since
the Conquest, and foundation of the high tower, and served for passengers on
foot out of the east, from thence through the city to Ludgate in the west. The
ruin and overthrow of this gate and postern began in the year 1190, the 2nd of Richard
I., when William Longshampe, bishop of Ely, chancellor of England, caused a
part of the city wall, to wit, from the said gate towards the river of Thames
to the white tower, to be broken down, for the enlarging of the said tower,
which he then compassed far wide about with a wall embattled, and is now the
outer wall. He also caused a broad and deep ditch to be made without the same
wall, intending to have derived the river of Thames with her tides to have
flowed about it, which would not be. But the southside of this gate, being then
by undermining at the foundation loosened, and greatly weakened; at length, to
wit, after two hundred years and odd, the same fell down in the year 1440, the
18th of Henry VI., and was never since by the citizens re-edified. Such was their negligence then, and hath bred some
trouble to their successors, since they suffered a weak and wooden building to
be there made, inhabited by persons of lewd life, oft times by inquest of
Portsoken ward presented, but not reformed; whereas of former times the said
postern was accounted of as other gates of the city, and was appointed to men
of good credit. Amongst other, I have read, that in the 49th of Edward III.,
John Cobbe was admitted custos of the said postern, and all the habitation
thereof, for term of his life, by William Walworth, then mayor of London, etc.
More, that John Credy, Esq., in the 21st of Richard II., was admitted custos of
the said postern and appurtenances by Richard Whittington, mayor, the aldermen,
and commonalty, etc. in London. [Portsoken is just to the east of the Tower of
London; Richard Whittington is better remembered in the theatre in the
pantomime season.]
AELDGATE
The next
gate in the east is called Aeldgate, of the antiquity or age thereof. This is
one and the first of the four principal gates, and also one of the seven double
gates, mentioned by Fitzstephen. It hath had two pair of gates, though now but
one; the hooks remaineth yet. Also there hath been two portcloses; the one of
them remaineth, the other wanteth, but the place of letting down is manifest.
For antiquity of the gate: it appeareth by a charter of King Edgar to the
knights of Knighten Guild, that in his days the said port was called Aeldgate,
as ye may read in the ward of Portsoken. Also Matilda the queen, wife to Henry
I., having founded the priory of the Holy Trinity within Aeldgate, gave unto
the same church, to Norman the first prior, and the canons that devoutly serve
God therein the port of Aeldgate, and the soke or
franchises thereunto belonging, with all customs as free as she held the same;
in the which charter she nameth the house Christ’s church, and reporteth
Aeldgate to be of his domain.
More, I
read in the year 1215, that in the civil wars
between King John and his barons, the Londoners assisting the barons’ faction,
who then besieged Northampton, and after came to Bedford castle, where they
were well received by William Beauchampe, and captain of the same; having then
also secret intelligence that they might enter the city of London if they
would, they removed their camp to Ware, from thence in the night coming to
London, they entered Aeldgate, and placing guardians or keepers of the gates,
they disposed of all things in the city at their pleasure. They spoiled the
friars’ houses, and searched their coffers; which
being done, Robert Fitzwalter, Geffry Magnavile Earl of Essex, and the Earl of
Glocester, chief leaders of the army, applied all diligence to repair the gates
and walls of this city with the stones taken from the Jews’ broken houses,
namely, Aeldgate being then most ruinous (which had given them an easy entry),
they repaired, or rather newly built, after the manner of the Normans, strongly
arched with bulwarks of stone from Caen in Normandy, and small brick, called
Flanders tile, was brought from thence, such as hath been here used since the
Conquest, and not before.
In the
year 1471, the 11th of Edward IV., Thomas, the
bastard Fawconbridge, having assembled a riotous company of shipmen and other
in Essex and Kent, came to London with a great navy of ships, near to the
Tower; whereupon the mayor and aldermen, by consent of a common council,
fortified all along the Thames side, from Baynard’s castle to the Tower, with
armed men, guns, and other instruments of war, to resist the invasion of the
mariners, whereby the Thames side was safely preserved and kept by the aldermen
and other citizens that assembled thither in great numbers. Whereupon the
rebels, being denied passage through the city that way, set upon Aeldgate,
Bishopsgate, Cripplegate, Aeldersgate, London bridge, and along the river of
Thames, shooting arrows and guns into the city, fired the suburbs, and burnt
more than threescore houses. And further, on Sunday the eleventh of May, five
thousand of them assaulting Aeldgate, won the bulwarks, and entered the city;
but the portclose being let down, such as had entered were slain, and Robert
Basset, alderman of Aeldgate ward, with the recorder, commanded in the name of
God to draw up the portclose; which being done, they issued out, and with sharp
shot, and fierce fight, put their enemies back so far as St. Bottolph’s church,
by which time the Earl Rivers, and lieutenant of the Tower, was come with a
fresh company, which joining together, discomfited the rebels, and put them to
flight, whom the said Robert Basset, with the other citizens, chased to the
Mile’s End, and from thence, some to Popular, some to Stratford, slew many, and
took many of them prisoners. In which space the Bastard having assayed other
places upon the water side, and little prevailed, fled toward his ships. Thus
much for Aeldgate.
BISHOPSGATE
The
third, and next toward the north, is called Bishopsgate, for that, as it may be
supposed, the same was first built by some Bishop of London, though now unknown
when, or by whom; but true it is, that the first gate was first built for ease
of passengers toward the east, and by north, as into Norfolk, Suffolk,
Cambridgeshire, etc.; the travellers into which parts, before the building of
this gate, were forced, passing out at Aeldgate, to go east till they came to
the Mile’s end, and then turning on the left hand to Blethenhall green to Cambridge heath, and so north, or east, and by
north, as their journey lay. If they took not this way, by the east out at
Aeldgate, they must take their way by the north out at Aeldersgate, through
Aeldersgate street and Goswel street towards Iseldon, and by a cross of stone
on their right hand, set up for a mark by the north end of Golding lane, to
turn eastward through a long street, until this day called Alder street, to
another cross standing, where now a smith’s forge is placed by Sewer’s-ditch
church, and then to turn again north towards Totenham, Endfield, Waltham, Ware,
etc. The eldest note that I read of this Bishopsgate, is that William Blund,
one of the sheriffs of London, in the year 1210,
sold to Serle Mercer, and William Almaine, procurators or wardens of London
bridge, all his land, with the garden, in the parish of St. Buttolph without
Bishopsgate, between the land of Richard Casiarin, towards the north, and the
land of Robert Crispie towards the south, and the highway called Berewards lane
on the east, etc.
Next I
read in a charter, dated the year 1235, that Walter Brune, citizen of London,
and Rosia his wife, having founded the priory or new hospital of our blessed
Lady, since called St. Mary Spittle without Bishopsgate, confirmed the same to
the honour of God and our blessed Lady, for canons regular.
Also in
the year 1247, Simon Fitzmarie, one of the sheriffs of London, the 29th of
Henry III., founded the hospital of St. Mary, called Bethlem without
Bishopsgate. Thus much for the antiquity of this gate.
And now
for repairing the same, I find that Henry III. confirmed to the merchants of
the Haunce [the Hanseatic League, a German free trade group], that had a house
in the city called Guildhalla Theutonicorum, certain liberties and privileges.
Edward I. also confirmed the same; in the tenth year of whose reign it was
found that the said merchants ought of right to repair the said gate called
Bishopsgate; whereupon Gerard Marbod, alderman of the Haunce and other, then
remaining in the city of London, for themselves, and all other merchants of the
said Haunce, granted two hundred and ten marks sterling to the mayor and
citizens; and covenanted that they and their successors should from time to
time repair the same gate. This gate was again beautifully built in the year
1479, in the reign of Edward IV., by the said Haunce merchants.
Moreover,
about the year 1551, these Haunce merchants, having prepared stone for that
purpose, caused a new gate to be framed, there to have been set up, but then
their liberties, through suit of our English merchants, were seized into the
king’s hand; and so that work was stayed, and the old gate yet remaineth.
POSTERN OF MOREGATE
Touching
the next postern, called Moregate, I find that Thomas Falconer, mayor, about
the year 1415, the third of Henry V., caused the wall of the city to be broken
near unto Coleman street, and there built a postern, now called Moregate, upon
the moor side where was never gate before. This gate he made for ease of the
citizens, that way to pass upon causeys into the field for their recreation:
for the same field was at that time a parish. This postern was re-edified by
William Hampton, fishmonger, mayor, in the year 1472. In the year also, 1511,
the third of Henry VIII., Roger Acheley, mayor, caused dikes and bridges to be
made, and the ground to be levelled, and made more commodious for passage,
since which time the same hath been heightened. So much that the ditches and
bridges are covered, and seemeth to me that if it be made level with the
battlements of the city wall, yet will it be little the drier, such is the
moorish nature of that ground.
POSTERN OF CRIPPLEGATE
The next
is the postern of Cripplegate, so called long before the Conquest. For I read
in the history of Edmond, king of the East Angles,
written by Abbo Floriacensis, and by Burchard, sometime secretary to Offa, king
of Marcia, but since by John Lidgate, monk of Bury, that in the year 1010, the
Danes spoiling the kingdom of the East Angles, Alwyne, bishop of Helmeham,
caused the body of King Edmond the Martyr to be brought from Bedrisworth (now
called Bury St. Edmondes), through the kingdom of the East Saxons, and so to
London in at Cripplegate; a place, saith mine author, so called of cripples
begging there: at which gate, it was said, the body entering, miracles were
wrought, as some of the lame to go upright, praising God. The body of King
Edmond rested for the space of three years in the parish church of St.
Gregorie, near unto the cathedral church of St. Paul. Moreover, the charter of
William the Conqueror, confirming the foundation of the college in London,
called St. Martin the Great, hath these words: “I
do give and grant to the same church and canons, serving God therein, all the
land and the moore without the postern, which is called Cripplegate, on either
side the postern.” More I read, that Alfune built the parish church of St.
Giles, nigh a gate of the city, called Porta Contractorum, or Cripplesgate,
about the year 1099.
This
postern was sometime a prison, whereunto such citizens and others, as were
arrested for debt or common trespasses, were committed, as they be now, to the
compters, which thing appeareth by a writ of Edward I. in these words: “Rex
vic. London. salutem: ex graui querela B. capt. & detent. in prisona nostra
de Criples gate pro x. l. quas coram Radulpho de Sandwico tunc custod.
ciuitatis nostræ London. & I. de Blackwell ciuis recognit. debit. etc.”
This gate was new built by the brewers of London in the year 1244, as saith
Fabian’s manuscript. Edmond Shaw, goldsmith, mayor in the year 1483, at his
decease appointed by his testament his executors, with the cost of four hundred
marks, and the stuff of the old gate, called Cripplesgate, to build the same
gate of new, which was performed and done in the year 1491.
ALDERSGATE
The next
is Ældresgate, or Aldersgate, so called not of
Aldrich or of Elders, that is to say, ancient men, builders thereof; not of
Eldarne trees, growing there more abundantly than in other places, as some have
fabled, but for the very antiquity of the gate itself, as being one of the
first four gates of the city, and serving for the northern parts, as Aldegate
for the east; which two gates, being both old gates, are for difference sake
called, the one Ealdegate, and the other Aldersgate. This is the fourth
principal gate, and hath at sundry times been increased with buildings, namely,
on the south, or inner side, a great frame of timber hath been added and set
up, containing divers large rooms and lodgings; also on the east side is the
addition of one great building of timber, with one large floor, paved with
stone or tile, and a well therein curbed with stone, of a great depth, and
rising into the said room, two stories high from the ground; which well is the
only peculiar note belonging to that gate, for I have not seen the like in all
this city to be raised so high. John Day, stationer, a late famous printer of
many good books, in our time dwelt in this gate, and built much upon the wall
of the city towards the parish church of St. Anne.
POSTERN OUT OF CHRIST’S HOSPITAL
Then is
there also a postern gate, made out of the wall on the north side of the late
dissolved cloister of Friers minors, commonly of their habit called Grey
friars, now Christ’s church and hospital. This postern was made in the first
year of Edward VI. [1547] to pass from the said hospital of Christ’s church unto the
hospital of St. Bartlemew in Smithfield.
NEWGATE
The next
gate on the west, and by north, is termed Newgate, as latelier built than the
rest, and is the fifth principal gate. This gate was first erected about the
reign of Henry I. or of King Stephen, upon this occasion. The cathedral church of St. Paul, being burnt about
the year 1086, in the reign of William the Conqueror, Mauritius, then bishop of
London, repaired not the old church, as some have supposed, but began the
foundation of a new work, such as men then judged would never have been performed;
it was to them so wonderful for height, length, and breadth, as also in respect
it was raised upon arches or vaults, a kind of workmanship brought in by the
Normans, and never known to the artificers of this land before that time, etc.
After Mauritius, Richard Beamore did wonderfully advance the work of the said
church, purchasing the large streets and lanes round about, wherein were wont
to dwell many lay people, which grounds he began to compass about with a strong
wall of stone and gates. By means of this increase of the church territory, but
more by inclosing of ground for so large a cemetery or churchyard, the high and
large street stretching from Aldegate in the east until Ludgate in the west,
was in this place so crossed and stopped up, that the carriage through the city
westward was forced to pass without the said churchyard wall on the north side,
through Pater noster row; and then south, down Ave Mary lane, and again west,
through Bowyer row to Ludgate; or else out of Cheepe, or Watheling street, to
turn south, through the old Exchange; then west through Carter lane, again
north by Creede lane, and then west to Ludgate: which passage, by reason of so
often turning, was very cumbersome and dangerous both for horse and man; for
remedy whereof a new gate was made, and so called, by which men and cattle,
with all manner of carriages, might pass more directly (as afore) from
Aldegate, through West Cheape by Paules, on the north side; through St.
Nicholas shambles and Newgate market to Newgate, and from thence to any part
westward over Oldborne bridge, or turning without the gate into Smithfielde,
and through Iseldon to any part north and by west. This gate hath of long time
been a gaol, or prison for felons and trespassers, as appeareth by records in the reign of King John, and of other kings;
amongst the which I find one testifying, that in the year 1218, the 3rd of King
Henry III., the king writeth unto the sheriffs of London, commanding them to
repair the gaol of Newgate for the safe keeping of his prisoners, promising
that the charges laid out should be allowed unto them upon their account in the
Exchequer.
Moreover,
in the year 1241, the Jews of Norwich were hanged for circumcising a Christian
child; their house called the Thor was pulled down and destroyed; Aron, the son
of Abraham, a Jew, at London, and the other Jews, were constrained to pay
twenty thousand marks at two terms in the year, or else to be kept perpetual
prisoners in Newgate of London, and in other prisons. In 1255, King Henry III.
lodging in the tower of London, upon displeasure conceived towards the city of
London, for the escape of John Offrem, a prisoner, being a clerk convict, out
of Newgate, which had killed a prior that was of alliance to the king, as
cousin to the queen: he sent for the mayor and sheriffs to come before him to
answer the matter; the mayor laid the fault from him to the sheriffs, forasmuch
as to them belonged the keeping of all prisoners within the city; and so the
mayor returned home, but the sheriffs remained there prisoners by the space of
a month and more; and yet they excused themselves, in that the fault chiefly
rested in the bishop’s officers; for whereas the prisoner was under custody,
they at his request had granted license to imprison the offender within the
gaol of Newgate, but so as the bishop’s officers were charged to see him safely
kept. The king, notwithstanding all this, demanded of the city three thousand
marks for a fine.
In the
year 1326, Robert Baldoke, the king’s chancellor, was put in Newgate, the 3rd
of Edward III. In the year 1337, Sir John Poultney gave four marks by the year
to the relief of prisoners in Newgate. In the year 1385, William Walworth gave
somewhat to relieve the prisoners in Newgate, so have many others since. In the
year 1414, the gaolers of Newgate and Ludgate died, and prisoners in Newgate to
the number of sixty-four. In the year 1418, the parson of Wrotham, in Kent, was
imprisoned in Newgate. In the year 1422, the first of Henry VI., license was
granted to John Coventre, Jenken Carpenter, and William Grove, executors to
Richard Whittington, to re-edify the gaol of Newgate, which they did with his
goods.
Thomas
Knowles, grocer, sometime mayor of London, by license of Reynold, prior of St.
Bartholomew’s in Smithfield, and also of John Wakering, master of the hospital
of St. Bartholomew, and his brethren, conveyed the waste of water at the
cistern near to the common fountain and chapel of St. Nicholas (situate by the
said hospital) to the gaols of Newgate, and Ludgate, for the relief of the
prisoners. Tuesday next after Palm Sunday 1431, all the prisoners of Ludgate
were removed into Newgate by Walter Chartesey, and Robert Large, sheriffs of
London; and on the 13th of April the same sheriffs (through the false
suggestion of John Kingesell, jailor of Newgate) set from thence eighteen
persons free men, and these were let to the compters, pinioned as if they had
been felons; but on the sixteenth of June, Ludgate was again appointed for free
men, prisoners for debt; and the same day the said free men entered by
ordinance of the mayor, aldermen, and commons, and by them Henry Deane, tailor,
was made keeper of Ludgate prison. In the year 1457, a great fray was in the
north country between Sir Thomas Percie, Lord Egremond, and the Earl of Salisbury’s
sons, whereby many were maimed and slain; but, in the end, the Lord Egremond
being taken, was by the king’s counsel found in great default, and therefore
condemned in great sums of money, to be paid to the Earl of Salisbury, and in
the meantime committed to Newgate. Not long after, Sir Thomas Percie, Lord
Egremond, and Sir Richard Percie his brother, being in Newgate, broke out of
prison by night, and went to the king; the other prisoners took the leads of
the gate, and defended it a long while against the sheriffs and all their
officers, insomuch that they were forced to call more aid of the citizens,
whereby they lastly subdued them, and laid them in irons: and this may suffice
for Newgate.
LUDGATE
In the
west is the next, and sixth principal gate, and is called Ludgate, as first
built (saith Geoffrey Monmouth) by King Lud, a Briton, about the year before
Christ’s nativity, 66. Of which building, and also of the name, as Ludsgate, or
Fludsgate, hath been of late some question among the learned; wherefore I
overpass it, as not to my purpose, only referring the reader to that I have
before written out of Cæsar’s Commentaries, and other Roman writers, concerning
a town or city amongst the Britons. This gate I suppose to be one of the most
ancient; and as Aldgate was built for the east, so was this Ludsgate for the
west. I read, as I told you, that in the year
1215, the 17th of King John, the barons of the realm, being in arms against the
king, entered this city, and spoiled the Jews’ houses; which being done, Robert
Fitzwater and Geffrey de Magnavilla, Earl of Essex, and the Earl of Gloucester,
chief leaders of the army, applied all diligence to repair the gates and walls
of this city, with the stones of the Jews’ broken houses, especially (as it seemeth)
they then repaired, or rather new built Ludgate. For in the year 1586, when the
same gate was taken down to be newly built, there was found couched within the
wall thereof a stone taken from one of the Jews’ houses, wherein was graven in
Hebrew characters these words following: Hæc est statio Rabbi Mosis, filii
insignis Rabbi Isaac: which is to say, this is the station or ward of Rabbi
Moyses, the son of the honourable Rabbi Isaac, and had been fixed upon the
front of one of the Jews’ houses, as a note or sign that such a one dwelt
there. In the year 1260, this Ludgate was repaired, and beautified with images
of Lud, and other kings, as appeareth by letters patent of license given to the
citizens of London, to take up stone for that purpose, dated the 25th of Henry
III. These images of kings in the reign of Edward VI. [1547-53] had their heads
smitten off, and were otherwise defaced by such as
judged every image to be an idol; and in the reign of Queen Mary [1553-58] were
repaired, as by setting new heads on their old bodies, etc. All which so
remained until the year 1586, the 28th of Queen Elizabeth, when the same gate
being sore decayed, was clean taken down; the prisoners in the meantime
remaining in the large south-east quadrant to the same gate adjoining; and the
same year the whole gate was newly and beautifully built, with the images of
Lud and others, as afore, on the east side, and the picture of her majesty
Queen Elizabeth on the west side: all which was done at the common charges of
the citizens, amounting to fifteen hundred pounds or more. [£1500 in 1586 is
equivalent to approximately £1.7m today.]
This gate
was made a free prison in the year 1378, the 1st of Richard II., Nicholas
Brembar being mayor. The same was confirmed in the
year 1382, John Northampton being mayor, by a common council in the Guildhall;
by which it was ordained that all freemen of this city should, for debt,
trespasses, accounts, and contempts, be imprisoned in Ludgate, and for
treasons, felonies, and other criminal offences, committed to Newgate, etc. In
the year 1431, the 10th of King Henry VI., John Wells being mayor, a court of
common council established ordinances (as William Standon and Robert Chicheley,
late mayors, before had done), touching the guard and government of Ludgate and
other prisons.
Also in
the year 1463, the third of Edward IV., Mathew Philip, being mayor, in a common
council, at the request of the well-disposed, blessed, and devout woman, Dame
Agnes Forster, widow, late wife to Stephen Forster, fishmonger, sometime mayor,
for the comfort and relief of all the poor prisoners, certain articles were
established. Imprimis, that the new works then late edified by the same Dame
Agnes, for the enlarging of the prison of Ludgate, from thenceforth should be
had and taken as a part and parcel of the said prison of Ludgate; so that both
the old and new work of Ludgate aforesaid be one prison, gaol keeping, and
charge for evermore.
The said
quadrant, strongly built of stone by the beforenamed Stephen Forster, and Agnes
his wife, containeth a large walking-place by ground of thirty-eight feet and a
half in length, besides the thickness of the walls, which are at the least six
foot, makes altogether forty-four feet and a half; the breadth within the walls
is twenty-nine feet and a half, so that the thickness of the walls maketh it
thirty five feet and a half in breadth. The like room it hath over it for
lodgings, and over it again fair leads to walk upon, well embattled, all for
fresh air and ease of prisoners, to the end they should have lodging and water
free without charge, as by certain verses graven in copper, and fixed on the
said quadrant, I have read in form following:—
“Devout
souls that pass this way, For Stephen Forster, late mayor, heartily pray; And
Dame Agnes his spouse to God consecrate, That of pity this house made for
Londoners in Ludgate. So that for lodging and water prisoners here nought pay,
As their keepers shall all answer at dreadful doomsday.”
This
place and one other of his arms, three broad arrow-heads, taken down with the
old gate, I caused to be fixed over the entry of the said quadrant; but the
verses being unhappily turned inward to the wall, procured the like in effect
to be graven outward in prose, declaring him to be a fishmonger, because some
upon a light occasion (as a maiden’s head in a glass window) had fabled him to
be a mercer, and to have begged there at Ludgate, etc. Thus much for Ludgate.
Next this
is there a breach in the wall of the city, and a bridge of timber over the
Fleet dike, betwixt Fleetebridge and Thames, directly over against the house of
Bridewel. Thus much for gates in the wall.
Water-gates
on the banks of the river Thames have been many, which being purchased by
private men, are also put to private use, and the old names of them forgotten;
but of such as remain, from the west towards the east, may be said as
followeth:—
The
Blacke-friers stairs, a free landing-place.
Then a
water-gate at Puddle wharf, of one Puddle that kept a wharf on the west side
thereof, and now of Puddle water, by means of many horses watered there.
Then
Powle’s wharf, also a free landing-place with stairs, etc.
Then
Broken wharf, and other such like.
But, Ripa
Regina, the Queene’s bank, or Queene hithe may well be accounted the very chief
and principal water-gate of this city, being a common strand or landing-place,
yet equal with, and of old time far exceeding, Belins gate [= Billingsgate], as
shall be shown in the ward of Queene hithe.
The next
is Downe gate, so called of the sudden descending or down-going of that way
from St. John’s church upon Walbrooke unto the river of Thames, whereby the
water in the channel there hath such a swift course, that in the year 1574, on
the fourth of September, after a strong shower of rain, a lad, of the age of eighteen
years, minding to have leapt over the channel, was taken by the feet, and borne
down with the violence of that narrow stream, and carried toward the Thames
with such a violent swiftness, as no man could rescue or stay him, till he came
against a cart-wheel that stood in the water-gate, before which time he was
drowned and stark dead.
This was
sometimes a large water-gate, frequented of ships and other vessels, like as
the Queene hithe, and was a part thereof, as doth appear by an inquisition made
in the 28th year of Henry III., wherein was found, that as well corn as fish,
and all other things coming to the port of Downegate, were to be ordered after
the customs of the Queene’s hithe, for the king’s use; as also that the corn
arriving between the gate of the Guild hall of the merchants of Cullen (the
Styleyard), which is east from Downegate, and the house then pertaining to the
Archbishop of Canterbury, west from Baynarde’s Castle, was to be measured by
the measure, and measurer of the Queene’s soke, or Queene hithe. I read also,
in the 19th of Edward III., that customs were then to be paid for ships and
other vessels resting at Downegate, as if they rode at Queene hithe, and as
they now do at Belingsgate. And thus much for Downegate may suffice.
The next
was called Wolfes gate in the ropery in the parish
of Allhallowes the Lesse, of later time called Wolfes lane, but now out of use;
for the lower part was built on by the Earle of Shrewsburie, and the other part
was stopped up and built on by the chamberlain of London.
The next
is Ebgate,
a water-gate, so called of old time, as appeareth by divers records of
tenements near unto the same adjoining. It standeth near unto the church of St.
Laurence Pountney, but is within the parish of St. Marten Ordegare. [St Martin
Orgar, located in Cannon St but partly destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666; it
is the second church mentioned in ‘Orange and Lemons’: ‘You owe me five
farthings/Say the bells of St Martin’s’.] In place of this gate is now a narrow passage
to the Thames, and is called Ebgate lane, but more commonly the Old Swan.
Then is
there a water-gate at the bridge foot, called Oyster gate, of oysters that were
there of old time, commonly to be sold, and was the chiefest market for them
and for other shell-fishes. There standeth now an engine or forcier, for the
winding up of water to serve the city, whereof I have already spoken.
BRIDGE GATE
The next
is the Bridge gate, so called of London Bridge, whereon it standeth. This was
one of the four first and principal gates of the city, long before the
Conquest, when there stood a bridge of timber, and is the seventh and last
principal gate mentioned by W. Fitzstephen; which gate being new made, when the bridge was built was built of stone,
hath been oftentimes since repaired. This gate, with the tower upon it, in the
year 1436 fell down, and two of the farthest arches southwards also fell
therewith, and no man perished or was hurt therewith. To the repairing whereof,
divers wealthy citizens gave large sums of money; namely, Robert Large,
sometime mayor, one hundred marks; Stephen Forster, twenty pounds; Sir John
Crosbye, alderman, one hundred pounds, etc. But in the year 1471, the Kentish mariners, under the conduct of bastard
Fauconbridge, burned the said gate and thirteen houses on the bridge, besides
the Beer houses at St. Katherine’s, and many others in the suburbs.
The next
is Buttolphe’s gate, so called of the parish church of St. Buttolph, near
adjoining. This gate was sometimes given or confirmed by William Conqueror to
the monks of Westminster in these words: “W. rex Angliæ, etc., William, king of
England, sendeth greeting to the sheriffes, and all his ministers, as also to
all his loving subjects, French and English, of London: Know ye that I have
granted to God and St. Peter of Westminster, and to the abbot Vitalis, the gift
which Almundus of the port of S. Buttolph gave them, when he was there made
monke: that is to say, his Lords court with the houses, and one wharf, which is
at the head of London bridge, and all other his lands which he had in the same
city, in such sort as King Edward more beneficially and amply granted the same;
and I will and command that they shall enjoy the same well and quietly and
honourably, with sake and soke, etc.”
The next
is Bellinsgate [=Billingsgate], used as an especial port, or harbour, for small
ships and boats coming thereto, and is now most
frequented, the Queen’s hithe being almost forsaken. How this gate took that
name, or of what antiquity the same is, I must leave uncertain, as not having
any ancient record thereof, more than that Geoffrey Monmouth writeth, that
Belin, a king of the Britons, about four hundred years before Christ’s
nativity, built this gate, and named it Belin’s gate, after his own calling;
and that when he was dead, his body being burnt, the ashes, in a vessel of
brass, were set upon a high pinnacle of stone over the same gate. But Cæsar and
other Roman writers affirm, of cities, walls, and gates, as ye have before
heard; and therefore it seemeth to me not to be so ancient, but rather to have
taken that name of some later owner of the place, happily named Beling, or
Biling, as Somar’s key, Smart’s key, Frosh wharf, and others, thereby took
their names of their owners. Of this gate more shall be said when we come to
Belin’s gate ward.
Then have
you a water-gate, on the west side of Wool wharf, or Customers’ key, which is commonly called the water-gate, at the
south end of Water lane.
One other
water-gate there is by the bulwark of the Tower, and this is the last and
farthest water-gate eastward, on the river of Thames, so far as the city of
London extendeth within the walls; both which last named water-gates be within
the Tower ward.
Besides
these common water-gates, were divers private wharfs and keys, all along from
the east to the west of this city, on the bank of the river of Thames;
merchants of all nations had landing-places, warehouses, cellars, and stowage
of their goods and merchandises, as partly shall be touched in the wards
adjoining to the said river. Now, for the ordering and keeping these gates of
this city in the night time, it was appointed in the year of Christ 1258, by
Henry III., the 42nd of his reign, that the ports
of England should be strongly kept, and that the gates of London should be new
repaired, and diligently kept in the night, for fear of French deceits, whereof
one writeth these verses:
“Per
noctem portæ clauduntur Londoniarum,
Mœnia ne
forte fraus frangat Francigenarum.”
[‘Every night they firmly shut the gates of London town
For fear the falsehood of the
French should break its bulwarks
down.’]
